What You Need to Know to Trek Everest Base Camp from Lukla – Trekking Guide Shares All

Have you ever considered taking a trip to go trekking the Himalayas in Nepal? Everyone knows Mount Everest, but do you know that most of us are capable of trekking to Everest Base Camp? What a bucket list adventure trip this would be!  

As a trekking guide, I am often asked whether it is allowed to trek in Nepal without booking through an agent or taking a guide.  In this blog, I will explain in detail, from my own experience, about trekking individually and trekking with a guide and/ or agency.

This article contains affiliate links. We earn from qualifying purchases.

First, when I refer to individually trekking, I do not mean trekking entirely on your own. Unless you are extremely experienced in trekking in the sometimes arduous Himalayas, I do not recommend you be sent off alone.  What I mean by trekking individually is: not booking through an agency but going with either a guide you have hired yourself or a porter you have hired yourself or, if you are experienced, with a friend or group of friends.

Secondly, there are areas in Nepal that are much easier to trek individually in than others.  For example, the Poon Hill Trek in the Annapurna area is a much easier trek than trekking in the Khumbu Region, also known as the Everest Region.

Here I will explain trekking to Everest Base Camp in Khumbu.  Lukla to the Everest Base Camp Trek, in fact.

Where is the Lukla to Everest Base Camp Trek?

Everyone knows the name, Mount Everest. Standing at 8,848m, it is the highest mountain in the world.  Each year many expeditions try – and many succeed – to summit this great mountain.  To climb Everest takes a great deal of mountaineering skill, time, and money!  Not available to the average person.

What is possible for most of us is to trek to Everest Base Camp.  And this is where the Lukla to EBC Trek will take you.

Starting at Kathmandu, there are a couple of ways to reach Lukla. The easiest and by far the most popular is to fly.  A short flight from Kathmandu over the landscape of settlements, forests, and mountains is a great introduction to the Everest Region.

The Flight and Day 01

Whether you are planning to trek individually or in a group through an agency, you set off early in the morning for the domestic terminal of Kathmandu airport and land 40 minutes later at the high-altitude airport of Lukla – actually named the Hillary Tenzing Airport.  At 2,846 m, you are already high in the mountains.

Start planning your next trip today with Kayak.

Alternatively, you can also take a helicopter flight to Lukla, which costs around USD 500. 

Assuming the flight is on time, it is still early morning when you arrive. Looking at the fact the first overnight stop is Phakding, only a 3 or 4 hours hike away, it is very tempting to set out to go directly on to Namche Bazaar (about another 4 hours walk) and miss out on Phakding.  Do NOT be tempted!  You have just flown from Kathmandu at an elevation of 1,400m.  Namche lies at 3,440m.  This is too much for your body to adjust to on your first day.

This is just one of the points I will be making about trekking with an experienced guide or trekking agency – the fact they know exactly what is achievable because they have done it so many times before.

Before I explain the other days on this trek, let me explain the logistics.

Permits for the Trek

For this trek, you need two permits, as requested by the Nepal Government.

• Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit: NPR 3,000 or roughly USD 30
• Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit (the local government of the Khumbu Region): NPR 2,000 or roughly USD 20

If you are traveling through an agency, they will organize the permits for you.

If you are traveling individually, you can get the permits in Kathmandu or on the trek.  

Best Time to do the Lukla to Everest Base Camp Trek

This is another frequently asked question! If you are open to any time of the year, I would say go in the spring or autumn (March to May and September to December).  They are the main trekking seasons.  

Upside: lodges are all open.  There are plenty of people on the trails (particularly valuable if you travel without a guide or porter). The weather is wonderful.  

Downside: Plenty of people on the trails!  Lodges may be full.  Without a guide having organized accommodation for you, you may have to share a room or sleep in the dining room.  

Winter is less crowded but extremely cold.  

Upside: less people equals more peace and quiet.  Crisp new snow on the mountains.  

Downside: More chances of missing the trails if you are trekking without a guide or porter due to snow and lack of other people on the route.  The cold! 

The Cost Involved in the Everest Base Camp Trek

This will depend on how you are doing this trek.

Flights: the costs are the same whether you go individually or through an agency.  $170 one way. 

Trekking agencies: international companies will charge you approximately USD3,000 to $6,000.

A local Nepali trekking company will cost you around USD1,200 to $2,500 for the Everest base camp trek

**Please be aware battery charging, hot showers, alcoholic drinks, and extra food is not included in these prices. 

Individually: you should budget approximately USD 35 per day. Below is a rough indication as to where that $35 will go.

• Cost of a meal: USD 5 to 6
• Cost of non-alcoholic drinks: USD 2 to 5 
• Cost of alcoholic drinks: USD 6 to 10
• Cost of overnight accommodation: USD 5 to USD 150 (luxury lodges are only available in certain settlements)
• Cost of a hot shower: USD 4
• Cost of battery charge for your phone/camera etc. Electricity or solar: USD 2 to USD 6. 

Can’t read now? Pin for later!

Accommodation on the Everest Base Camp Trek 

The amount you are paying a trekking agency, should you be using one, will likely reflect the standard of accommodation you get.  Having said that, higher up the trail, all accommodation is pretty much to the same standard.  Only in places like Namche Bazaar, Phakding, and Lukla there is more luxurious accommodation.  Discuss this with your agency before setting off.

If you are traveling individually, then you can choose your accommodation. Choose it, that is when it is available.  Remember, high season means less accommodation available.  This is where having a local guide comes in handy – he knows the lodges and can book ahead or suggest another if one is full.  

Travel Tips:

• 1) If the weather is not good, flights can get delayed, and Lukla can become very crowded with trekkers trying to leave.  Rooms may be difficult to get, so be mentally prepared. 
• 2) At Tengboche, if there are no rooms available, trek on for 15 minutes to Denboche, where there are more lodges.
• 3) Regardless of whether to go individually or with an agency – take a sleeping bag!  Extra warmth, guaranteed clean! 

What to Eat on the Everest BC Trek

Every lodge pretty much serves the same food.  

• Breakfast of noodles, porridge, bread, and hot tea or coffee.
• Lunch of dal bhat (rice and Nepali curry): You will be eating at the teahouses along the route.
• Dinner of Nepali and Western items such as soups, curry, and pizza.

Travel Tips: 

• 1) Bring snacks along the trail.  You can buy these in Kathmandu or at a price in Namche Bazaar. 
• 2) Avoid meat at higher altitudes.  Few or no fridges or electricity!  
• 3) Alcohol is expensive.  Remember it has to be carried in by porter or yak.  In any case, it’s not recommended to drink at a high altitude.  Save the money and splurge on that beer or wine on the return route in Namche or Lukla!  
• 4) There are bakeries at Tengboche, Lukla, and Namche for those with a sweet tooth. 

EBC Trek Itinerary 

Whether trekking individually or through an agency, the itinerary is the same. 

Day 01 Kathmandu to Lukla by flight, then trek to Phakding (as described above)

Day 2 Phakding to Namche Bazaar

Today enter Sagarmatha National Park. Now you are really in the heartland of the Sherpa community!  Namche is the commercial town of the region and the starting point of treks and climbing expeditions in the region.

Day 3 Acclimatization Day in Namche

Everyone should acclimatize here to avoid getting altitude problems. Do not make the mistake of thinking you can push on to the next destination.  In any case, there are interesting things to do in the area. For example, head over to the Everest View Hotel for a cup of coffee with the most amazing views of Everest.  Or visit the health post and school set up by Sir Edmund Hillary.  It is always better to be active on acclimatization days to help your body get used to the altitude.

Day 4 Namche to Tengboche

Tengboche is home to the highest Buddhist monastery in the Everest Region. If you time it right, you can attend a puja (religious ceremony) or meet some of the monks who live there.  Regardless of the time you visit, the views of the mountains from here are just amazing!  What a wonderful place to build a monastery! 

Day 5 Tengboche to Dingboche

More spectacular views today – particularly of Mount Ama Dablam – from this, the highest Sherpa village in the region. It takes only 4 to 5 hours to get there, so the afternoon can be spent taking in the scenery and getting wonderful photographs.

Day 6 Acclimatization Day in Dingboche

Once again, there is an acclimatization day and some more short hikes to enjoy in the area.  For example, hike to the base of Nagkar Tshang Peak, a sacred site to the Sherpas.  Here the 5^th highest mountain in the world, Mt Makalu, is on display!

Day 7 Dingboche to Lobuche

This day is filled with nature.  From the valley floor, alpine scrub and pastures with grazing yaks to Lobuche village with its views of Ama Dablam and other peaks over 7,000m.  And, thrillingly, the route goes over the Thokla Pass. This challenging part is best taken slowly.  

Day 8 Lobuche to Gorakshep (Afternoon hike to Kalapatthar)

Outside of Nepal, few people will have heard of Kalapatthar. In contrast, everyone has heard of Everest Base Camp.  However, at 5,545m, Kalapatthar has the best views of Everest.  This trail is a bit challenging, too, and it takes around 6 to 7 hours to complete the trek to Gorakshep and the afternoon excursion to Kalapatthar, translated as the black rock and also known as the viewpoint for Everest. 

Day 9 Gorakshep to Pheriche (morning hike to EBC)

A long trek, taking 7 to 8 hours, brings you to Everest Base Camp.  You will most likely see expeditions set up and ready to conquer the world’s highest peak!  You will definitely see the Khumbu Glacier or icefall – something both beautiful and deadly.  To reach Camp 1, mountaineers have to cross this ocean of ice.  

On the way from EBC to Pheriche, the Himalayan Rescue Association Clinic is set up to help trekkers, mountaineers, trekking staff, porters, and locals alike.  

Day 10 Pheriche to Namche

The route has gone through a very rugged landscape for the last few days.  Beautiful in its starkness.  Now forests and greenery return as the trail heads to Namche Bazaar.  Here you may be able to treat yourself to a luxury lodge or a few drinks at the bar while connecting to folks at home through the internet now available here. 

Day 11 Namche to Lukla

On the final day of the trek, head back along rivers, across suspension bridges, and through forests to reach Lukla.  It is necessary to stay overnight here to catch the early morning flight back to Kathmandu.  

Pros and Cons of Trekking Alone vs with a Trekking Agency

Individual Trekking to EBC

Some people do like to ‘go it alone.  They feel it is more adventurous and fulfilling.  However, remember that you should never trek in the Himalayas entirely alone.  Even if you don’t want to take a guide, taking a local porter will help a) someone is with you in an emergency, b) someone can show you the way if the trail is unclear at any point due to snow, bad weather, etc, ) he will help you carry your gear, and very importantly, d) you will be giving back to the local community through the money you pay him.

Pros: the feeling of freedom; satisfaction in achieving something alone; no unwanted companions; making your own decisions on accommodation, etc.; giving back directly to the local community.

Cons: safety; no one to share the adventure with; no one to provide information on the local culture or names of mountains. 

Trekking through an Agency

If you decide to trek with a trekking agency/ company, consider whether you want to do this through an international or local one.  An international agency may have more clients from your home country and speak your language.  A local agency ensures the money you spend stays completely in Nepal. Both international and local companies will use local guides, porters, and similar lodges on the trek.

Pros: decisions are taken by those with vast experience of the trek; your safety is the number one priority – guides know what to do in case of emergencies; accommodation is booked in advance; guides are a great source of information about the local communities and landscapes; someone will carry your gear! 

Cons: you may be in a group of people who are not like-minded; there is less flexibility on the speed you travel or any side trips you might want to take.