By Ariel Frager
Unlike surfers, skiers and snowboarders find it more challenging to keep an entire mountain a secret from the overwhelming, influencer driven crowds. I have been told plenty of times to not write about certain spots that a small group of surfers want to keep private. But a mountain town is a lot harder to hide. Somehow, the charms of Golden, British Columbia have evaded the throngs and the picture perfect small mountain town that produces fluffy champagne powder has been hidden in plain sight for over 140 years.
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The Ktunuxa and Secwépemc people have always lived in the area. The first white settlers found their way to the confluence of the Kicking Horse and Columbia Rivers in 1807 and the town of Golden was founded in 1883 (it officially incorporated in 1957). First developed as a railway base camp for the Canadian Pacific Railway and logging have been the twin economic engines of the town.
Located in the Kootenay region of Southeastern British Columbia, Golden is a short drive from six national parks: Banff, Glacier, Jasper, Kootenay, Mount Revelstoke and Yoho. Our family loved the small town (population just over 4,000), the stunning expanse of the Canadian Rockies and the secret gem of a ski hill at Kicking Horse Mountain Resort.
Secret Ski Resort
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort and the town of Golden do not share a name like other well established British Columbia ski areas, I’m looking at you, Whistler, Revelstoke, and Kimberly. This may be the lucky fact that non-locals haven’t figured out the Golden-Kicking Horse pairing, thus keeping the area mostly free of tourists. Sure, there are folks who drive the three hour stunning trek through the mountains from Calgary for a powder day but it’s mostly locals who storm this hill.
My family and I enjoyed three days exploring Kicking Horse. Even though we aren’t expert skiers and much of the 60 double black diamond terrain was well beyond our ski skills, we loved the challenges we took on and the long, powder-filled runs that kept the in-the-know skiers happy. Kicking Horse is a haven for expert skiers and snowboarders, the big bowls, hike to ski terrain and that dry, light powder make it a special spot. The five lift and single gondola service are limited but once on the mountain, the options are suburb.
We discovered the beginner run, “It’s a Ten,” our first morning. The top to bottom run is 10 kilometers long. There lots of branching runs off this main “cat track” and our family found ourselves returning to this long ride throughout our visit.
A Resort Home for the Whole Family
The cool thing about Kicking Horse is that no matter what your skill level, there are plenty of options. Ideally, a family who has mixed level ski and snowboarding abilities will have an excellent day if you are storming the bowls, climbing up to reach a spot for fresh tracks or just learning. We were quite intimidated by the resort maps glittered with diamonds but we found our groove and had plenty of fun sticking to the greens and blues and a few black runs.
Food up on the Hill
Even though Kicking Horse is considered a smaller resort, the food options are excellent. At the tippy top of the mountain where the Golden Eagle Express Gondola gently releases its passengers rests the Eagle’s Eye Restaurant. A perfect spot for a long lunch or apres cocktails, the Eagle’s Eye features burgers and salads and classic Canadian dish, Poutine.
We couldn’t finish the tasty pile of fries, vegetarian gravy and cheese curds but it sure was delish. I had a very tasty burger at the Double Black Cafe for another mid-ski day meal.
Getting There, Parking and Other Details
Kicking Horse Mountain Resort is located just 15 minutes from downtown Golden. There is a small parking lot just across the street from the main village where the rental counter, the ticket office and the gondola and other base lifts are located. Only on the fresh snow Saturday did we need a little patience to park.
The rental staff were friendly and helpful and were happy to store our skis overnight during our three day visit. My son took a lesson on one of our ski days and he found that his instructor was knowledgeable and helped push him to achieve his next level as a skier. We found all the folks we encountered at Kicking Horse to be friendly, kind and helpful.
Other Things to do in Golden, BC
Golden is a small town. During the winter, skiing is really the main activity. One notable exception is the Northern Lights Wolf Center. Co-founder Shelley Black has dedicated her life to caring for the handful of wolves who live at the center. She is a fierce advocate for conservation, education and raising awareness about the importance of wolves.
My husband and I were lucky enough to go on a wolf photography walk with Shelley and Flora, a wolf who came to Northern Lights Wolf Center when she was 11 days old after her birth in a zoo. Because Flora was born in captivity, she would not survive if reintroduced to the wild. Instead, she took us humans on a snowy walk in a nearby wilderness area.
We had the unique opportunity to watch Flora run, play, snuzzle in the snow and she even stood still for photos while Shelley held a bit of raw steak to encourage her friendly pose. Northern Lights Wolf Center is open for interpretive tours for all ages. The wolf walk is only available to those 16 years-old and up.
Our entire family also enjoyed cheering on the local Junior A hockey team, the Golden Rockets. Golden is in Canada after all and partaking in an evening of the national obsession was a picture perfect window into the lives of small town Canadians. The 16-19 year olds who play at this level do as much slamming and fighting as in higher ranked hockey leagues. It was fun to watch and I found myself being grateful that this is one sport my kid doesn’t play.
Where to Eat in Golden, BC
On our way up to Kicking Horse, we found a delicious breakfast at Ethos Cafe. Like all food service restaurants in Golden, Ethos is locally owned and proud. This standout bakery and cafe has all the fuel you need for a day on the mountain with tasty breaky sandos and a unique take on French Toast.
Even though Golden has a small population, the first documented South Asian residents of the area date back to 1902. Built on this long tradition, Indian Kitchen serves fantastic Northern Indian cuisine, maintaining the perfect balance of flavors and just-right spice level cooking up an authentic Indian meal.
We didn’t make it to Reposados Tacos y Tequila because the wait was too long and we were too hungry. Locals tell us they make a decent taco, even in the middle of the Canadian Rockies and the margaritas are a nice reward after a day on the slopes.
To sample a taste of mountain life, head over to Whitetooth Bistro, a farm to table breakfast, lunch and dinner experience. The menu changes quarterly to keep the locals interested and the food was excellently prepared elevated comfort food. The extensive wine list and spot-on cocktails round out the bounty of this Pacific Northwest inspired fare.
The menu at Eleven 22 might at first glance seem a little confused. Pretzels and curry, Mahi Mahi and Bison Shepherd’s Pie seem like dishes that belong in different restaurants but somehow the downhome cozy nature of the converted Craftsman home and the earnestness of the flavors made for a tasty meal.
Where to Stay in Golden, BC
Cedar House Chalets was the perfect landing spot for our Golden holiday. Our two bedroom cabin came equipped with everything we needed for a cozy retreat. The fully stocked kitchen, washer and dryer and most importantly, the private hot tub complete with an epic view of the mountains.
I drank my coffee in the hot tub in the mornings and drank my apres-ski beer in the tub each afternoon. The Cedar House Chalets are located about a five minute drive outside of town and for the quiet neighborhood and stunning views, it was worth it.
There are a few other options for lodging in Golden like the Vagabond Lodge located adjacent to Kicking Horse Mountain Resort for ski in/ski out convenience. There are a host of basic hotels in town and a number of vacation rentals to choose from.
Pro-Tip and a Return Visit
Golden is located just 90 minutes from Banff and less than an hour to the storied Lake Louise. It’s a more affordable and less touristy option for a homebase to explore the national parks located in the area. Golden was a treat of a discovery of a secret ski town, and I think we’ll just have to return for hiking and mountain biking next summer – but I’ll be sure to not tell anyone.
Ski Gear for Families
As much as I love the freeing sensation of catapulting my body down the slippery edge of a snow covered mountain, the fact is that skiing is only super fun as long as you stay super warm. Double the misery when your kids get cold. The chorus of “Mom! I can’t feel my toes” can turn a pleasant winter day into a slog. Luckily, the ski gear options for keeping cozy have never been better.
Outerwear
Aztech Mountain makes fashion forward ski wear that brings style and function to the slopes. Based both in Aspen and New York City, Aztech Mountain toggles between form and function. My full suit of the Hayden 3L Shell Jacket and Pants, moved nicely as the snow/wind shield from the elements. Aztech Mountain has an array of fun colors and my Hot Wheels pants, a swirl of color below the knee, were helpful for my family when trying to locate me against the white snow fields.
My husband and son each tested out different ski outwear outfits. My husband wore the Rab combo of the Khroma Kinetic Jacket and Pants. He loved how breathable and stretchable the fabric was and it was completely waterproof. Our son sported the Mammut Stoney Hooded Jacket and matching Pants. I could see his ever improving turns as his bright baby blue jacket lit up the mountain. The oversized jacket worked well with the layers of warmth needed for 14 degrees Fahrenheit we encountered at the peak of Kicking Horse Mountain Resort.
Mid-Layers
Eastern British Columbia can be quite cold and I was super grateful to have various options to keep me warm. I felt protected from the chill in the air after disembarking from the gondola, despite the piercing winds and frigid temperatures. I couldn’t have lasted more than a run or two without The North Face Terra Peak Hoody underneath my ski shell. The lightweight and warm down puffy warded off the mountain chill. I especially appreciated the extra length in the neck zip because even with my buff, my face would have been cold.
Under my down hoody, I needed two more layers because I get chilled so fast. The Fjallraven Expedition Fleece Hoody kept me warm on the slopes and as a nice layer when going out on the town. I loved the bright Flame Orange color and the technical fit has proven a winner at home too.
Another mid-layer I used for apres-ski time is my new found very best friend, the PNW Shacket (shirt + jacket) from Oiselle. This is a piece of clothing that I will never not love. Oversized enough that it’s comfy, but fitted enough to be flattering. The over-the-tush length kept me warm while watching Canadian teenagers play ice hockey in a cold arena and stylish enough to fit right in with small town Canada.
Base Layers
My son and I both swore by the Smartwool Merino Base Layer Crew and Bottoms. We were swaddled in the natural warmth from the wool. I enjoyed the bottom tights under my jeans, especially when the temperatures reached -14 degrees Fahrenheit, but for skiing I swore by my Bracelayer Alpine Thermal Base Layer with Knee Support tights. After an ACL repair following a college soccer injury, I have been advised to not ski at all and to give up running. Even though I have hung up my running shoes, I just can’t stop skiing. The Bracelayer tights eliminated the need for my giant mid shin to mid thigh knee brace. The compression support from the tights both around the knees and at the hips gave me that little extra strength I needed to safely ski for multiple days in a row. The tights are also plenty warm enough as a first layer even in the Canadian Rockies.
Shoes, Bags and Accessories
The Xero Alpine Snow Boot kept my feet warm when not crammed into my ski boots. The generous toe bed allowed room to wiggle my toes to keep them warm. The boots are super light, not the heavy drag of typical snow boots. My other cold weather footwear choice are the Sole Jasper Chukka boots. Sole is a British Columbia based company that uses recycled wine corks to make comfortable footbeds and insoles. The Jasper Chukka combines the cork footbed and a wool upper to create a warm and stylish short bootie that wears like a sneaker with the flare of a fancier shoe.
I hate checking bags in. But when skiing, I usually have too much gear and am forced to check at least one bag. For our visit to Golden, we opted not to bring our own skis and managed to pack all our ski gear into the No Receptions Club Hideaway Duffle. This perfectly sized carry-on has a pocket for everything: a big main compartment, an internal concealed pocket for valuables and even magnetic side pockets to hold the straps when not in use. I was skeptical of this bag before trying it and now I’m a fan. I was able to fit three ski jackets, three sets of ski pants, three sets of goggles, three sets of ski gloves and a handful of other pieces of gear we needed for our trip all into this one bag.
I was glad to have brought the Seirus Solarsphere Ace Gloves for walking around town and any other time we weren’t skiing. The gloves are thin enough and have an index finger touch screen that my hands felt useful and warm enough even on very cold evenings in Golden. Gordini kept my toes warm and my husband’s hands toasty with the Pyco Ski Sock and the Gauntlet Glove.
I wore my Smith Squad Goggles on the mountain. I appreciated the clear lens on the overcast days because it made it easier to read the terrain. I have had to arm wrestle my son for the Grand Catalina sunglasses from Costa to shield my eyes from the alpine sunshine. I love the aviator style, the fit and how cool I feel when wearing them.
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